Sunday, September 5, 2021

The secret to working with cassava flour

Working with cassava flour can be tricky if you want it to come out "dry" like wheat flour.  It actually IS POSSIBLE.  Cassava is used to make real bread in Nigeria, not that gummy crap like in South America.

1) Never cook/bake higher than 335F.  I was told 325F is ideal, but it cooks slow and I've found in most cases 335F still gets it cooked dry and saves a lot of time.  An oven will get you a more consistent and even temperature than a fry pan.  If it is too dry, it forms a gelatin like structure that appears uncooked.  Cooking it longer will not make a difference. 

2a) When mixing a non-yeast dough, there is a very particular order.  First add oil or butter and mix until completely incorporated (it is really hard to do with utensils.... gotta use your hand).  Then add eggs (completely incorporating).  Finally add liquid (doesn't need much).  Add as little as possible to get it to stick together but stay dry.  In Nigeria, they are convinced dry milk is a critical ingredient.  I don't tolerate casein, so I couldn't tell you.  Occasionally I'll add a tsp of amaranth flour in hopes it does something similar.  It goes in before the liquid.  I haven't figured out yeast recipes yet.

2b) When making batter, it is a bit more forgiving as long as it is no more than 1/3 of the flour, or 2/3 with tapioca.  It also needs a major boost to get air in it to get a nice crumb.  Add way more baking powder than you think is necessary, and then add a little baking soda and vinegar too.  

2c) You can cheat at cassava flour recipes with a ridiculous amount of sugar that creates almost a caramelized crumb structure (in brownies, cookies, etc)

3) Let sit for 20-30 min.  The carbohydrate structure of cassava traps liquid.  This is a good thing in the long term because it keeps baked goods moist.  It also makes it very very difficult to bake through.  Letting it rest in the final shape you are hoping for helps. 

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